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hardy  Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL> Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL>
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From: "studio.nuovo" <studio.pozzitaubert at TISCALI.IT>
Subject: Re: Arisaema griffithii
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Hi Adam, my compliments for your 82,
I'm quite new to aroids, and getting them for the first time in past= =

season, i planted some near  the house in a flowerbed where Callas were= =

growing well, there, under a gold japanese maple, 
Tortuosum,Candidissimum and a Pinellia bought as Dracontium grew very=2=0
well and so did a tuber of Amorph.Koniak; that place instead,  was bad= =

either for Griffithii as for Speciosum, the first didn't grow and I 
lost the tuber, the second flowered and suddenly the plant died 
rotting, the soil was common rich garden soil acid like all my ground.
I planted  some tubers a bit far into another flowerbed raised 50 cm 
with stones all around, where two Strobus pines 25 mts. tall  could 
give shadow, there the soil is very acid due to the needles but not too= =

soft, well there 1 Griffithii grew well as other species did, there  
Candidissimum and Sikokianum were setting seeds, but too hot and late=2=0
afternoon sun reaching that zone stopped ripening the fruits, when 
lifting the tubers I found noone was rot, some produced tuberlets.
Another good site was under a Ilex aequifolium ( holly ), near Cyclamen= =

Purpurascens and Snowdrops where Sp.16 and Sp.36 grew well, flowering=2=0
but not setting seeds.
I'm going now to plant those and new tubers I got from Ganesh Pradhan=2=0
in a similar place with conifers castans and birchs a little leaning 
and with more shadow surrounding the tubers with palmate maples in 
order to give them more shadow too and some freshness.
I mixed in that place sand and pumice and perlite to get an even more=2=0
soft soil, hoping that tubers can develop fine roots.
I'll try to put an iron net under some of them to see if lifting will=2=0
be easier in Autumn and some will be  planted in terracotta-pots with=2=0
light mix and then down deep into the soil.

A word about ShikokuGarden, well I had some mailing with mr. Takuya and= =

when confirming my order ( rather big), I couldn't get any reply from=2=0
him, I sent many mails but couldn't get any reply, not too serious by=2=0
him.

Another word about PenlanPerennials in UK, I got some tubers and saw 
after a week one Speciosum was rotting, took a picture and cleaned and= =

dried with sulphure powder, I sent the pictures to that seller and his= =

replky was "..  it happens... with Griffithii too somtimes ", nothing=2=0
about changing the tuber, my effort to save the tuber seems to give 
good results till now as the wound is dry.

Mrs Chen,on the contrary, promptly changed the tubers I wrote were bad,= =

always sending her some pictures, with new corms, without charges.

Giorgio Pozzi
North Italy
zone 6/7


> Well, Leo, I think that planting at the base of a conifer is a good=2=0
> idea, but no conifers in my yard.=A0 I have planted a few of them =
under 
> the eaves of the house hjst inboard of the drip line of the gutters=2=0
> where it's drier and warmer.=A0 But it tends to get too dry at times.==A0=
 
> I've brojught some South African plants through the winter that way=2=0
> this last year, and have a couple of arisaemas being tested that way,= =

> also.=A0=A0 i'm not quite sure what I'm going to do with griffithii=, =
utile 
> and galeatum which I'm trying for=A0about the 3rd time.=A0=A0Hour=s of =
sun, 
> clayish soil, and degree of amendment with different materials all get= =

> factored in, but I don't have a formula that works=A0YET.
> =A0
> Lke Tony, I'm persistent but maybe not as persistent as he.=A0 Don't= =

> have that much money or time. I just turned 82 so I'd like quicker 
> results.=A0=A0
> =A0