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hardy  Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL> Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL>
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From: "J.E. Shields" <jshields at INDY.NET>
Subject: Re: Rust
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Hi Russell,

Daylily rust is Puccinia hemerocallidis while Arisaema rust is Uromyces
(?), so they are not the same thing.  We have guessed that Arisaema rust
uses two alternating hosts, like other rusts, but we don't really know --
we need a rust expert to tell us.

Daylily rust does not overwinter in cold climates on daylilies -- to
overwinter in cold areas, it needs the alternate host, Patrinia sp.  In
mild climates, the winter does not kill the daylily rust and it happily
spreads from plant to plant, year after year, without needing to visit th=e
alternate host.

You could probably treat arisaema rust the way you do daylily rust,
spraying with a variety of different kinds of fungicides at regular
intervals.  I think you could protect healthy Arisaema plants by spraying
with a surface contact sporicide, like Daconil.  Or not.....?

Good luck,
Jim Shields
in central Indiana (USA), where the winter seems to kill off daylily rust

At 10:42 AM 5/16/2007 -0500, you wrote:
>I hope this isn't a stupid question...
>
>Is the rust on Arisaemas the same thing that infects day lilies?  I have=a
>pretty fierce arsenal of chemicals and fungicides that I've been using o=n
>the day lilies, but this year I've decided to stop all of that
>nonsense.  Some plants are perfectly clean, while the plant next to it m=ay
>be hit really hard.  This is going to be my summer to see who has a real
>resistance - and thin the herd.
>
>Most of the Arisaemas I've liberated from pots are to the rear of the be=d
>in the shade under big sasanquas that is fronted by the day lilies, abou=t
>7 feet behind them.  Should I be worried?
>
>Adam, have you ever tried your aspirin solution on anything other than
>Arisaemas?  What is your ratio?  I may go ahead and hit the Arisaemas to
>be on the safe side.  I'd also like to try it on the day lilies.  I thin=k
>it would be interesting to spray and drench an infected plant, then wait=a
>few days and completely defoliate it and see if the resistance is better
>with the second crop of foliage.
>
>Does anyone have any guess as to the ratio for the ich medication for
>spraying on plants?  I'd love to try it too.  I'd much rather spray a
>harmless dye than these harsh chemicals.
>
>To the Alpine-L subscribers, if any other info comes along would you
>please share it with us?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Russell (8b)
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:adam14113 at AMERITECH.NET>Adam Fikso
>To: <mailto:ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL>ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL
>Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:41 AM
>Subject: Re: Rust
>
>New to me, and fascinating.  It shouln't be too expensive to go to your
>local pet shop or aquarium and get some, put it various dilutions in a
>spray bhottle and try it out.  I've found an aspirin spray and drench to
>get rid of it for the following year, but no treatment that takes it out
>on the spot.
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:JimMcClem at AOL.COM>Jim McClements, Dover, DE z6
>To: <mailto:ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL>ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL
>Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:59 AM
>Subject: Rust
>
>Those of you who subscribe to Alpine-L will know that for the past week
>there's been an ongoing discussion about Arisaema rust, its cause and
>treatments, most of which has previously been covered on this list.
>
>However, a posting yesterday, copied below, brings a dimension to rusts
>that was news to me. Are there any treatments out there that incorporate
>this knowledge into something practical? Has anyone tried eother of the =2
>dyes mentioned?
>
>
>
>DNA testing has removed most rusts from Kingdom Fungi,  They are now usu=ally
>the fungal generation of Amoebae.  In tropical fish they use aniline dye=s to
>kill the free swimming generation of Ich.  Phytophthora (Root Rot, forme=r
>fungus) and Macrocystis (Giant Brown Kelp, former plant) are cosely
>related.  The single cell free-swimming generation being nearly identica=l.
>Aniline dyes used in fish are Methylene Blue (light activated),  and
>Malachite green which doesn't require light.
>Larry Wallace
>Cincinnati
>Jim
>
>
>
>
>
>Jim McClements
>50 S. Prestwick Ct.
>Dover, Delaware 19904, USA
>Zone 7a
>302-734-2836
>
>
>
>**************************************
>See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

*************************************************
Jim Shields             USDA Zone 5             Shields Gardens, Ltd.
P.O. Box 92              WWW:    http://www.shieldsgardens.com/
Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA
Tel. ++1-317-867-3344     or      toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA