No subject

[Arisaema Enthusiast Group (AEG) Discussion List (and other=]

hardy  Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL> Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL>
Sender: "Arisaema Enthusiast Group (AEG) Discussion List (and other=
From: windyhollownursery <windyhollownursery at DCSI.NET.AU>
Subject: Re: My first :)
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transf er-Encoding: 7bit

Dear Arnhild,
May I add my two pennyworth here.  We do exactly as Paul does, up to what=we
consider step no. 2.  All our seeds are first sown in a 7cm tube (unless =there
are large quantitities of seed).  After germination, we allow them to gro=w on
for some two months in those pots and capillary feed them by standing the=m in a
general hydroponic mixture (other general liquid fertilizers would do) wh=ich
comes halfway up the tube.  We do this perhaps 3 times in that first stag=e.
Once their foliage is indicating that is growing well  -and therefore the=ir root
system is also potentially vigorous - we prepare a potting mix with good
drainage plus a slow release fertilizer.  The small pot is carefully up-e=nded
with the left hand and planted into a 10cm to 12 cm pot with some 7cm of =soil on
its bottom, in one piece. The result (hopefully) is that because the seed=lings
have entwined their roots to some extent, they end up repotted into a lar=ger
pot, complete with ample soil and food and with little or no root disturb=ance.
Our plants generally stay growing on in this stage, till they are ready f=or
either shaking the soil off for individual potting or in the case of bulb=s,corms
or tubers, allowing to go into dormancy before repotting.  There is one o=ther
thing that is done and that is as we mix our own seedling mix, we pour tw=o lots
of boiling water over the trays of pots, allow them to cool off, then sow=.  We
also do this with the grit, before putting it on top of the seeds.  Havin=g lost
our fair share of seedlings from fungal diseases in the first few years, =I'd say
the important differences now are: 1) the sterilization with boiling wate=r 2)
the grit on top of the seeds and 3)the repotting without disturbing their=root
systems too much, (when they are so fragile and vulnerable).  This method=has
worked for a wide range of plant species, over some 8 years now.
Perhaps this would be a good time to introduce myself as a new member to =the AEG
List.  I run a small mail order nursery in Australia, (along with my othe=r half)
growing a wide range of perennials, bulbs and bulbous plants, mini daffs,
auriculas, etc., but no Austalian native plants.  We grow good, strong, h=ealthy
plants but have a perpetual mess of a garden.  I guess the latter is more=to do
with trying to run in too many directions at a time when most people are
retiring.  My mind always says I can do twice as much and my body says "n=o you
can't"  We've been doing this for some twenty years now, mainly in Tasman=ia
(beautiful) and the last six years in Victoria.  Although I'm growing Tri=lliums
or at least trying to build up a collection, their germination has been a=bit of
a disappointment (Norm Deno method here I come) whereas the few Arisaemas=I've
so far had access too, have come up with some regularity.  The first one =I saw
was A. candidissimum (given me by a Tassie friend) and I thought it was l=ovely.
The second was one seedling of A. sikokianum, which germinated in some Sm=yrnium
perfoliatum seeds.  When this obviously different leaf to the rest of the=pot,
threw up its flowerhead, I was hooked.  So very stylish and so beautiful.=That
one proceeded fine for two seasons, flowering each one (no seed of course=).  I
then decided it was too dry under this weeping silver pear tree and potte=d it
into a 7" pot, hoping to get some offsets - as I had with A. candidissimu=m - and
that winter it quietly rotted away.  At least I learnt that dry dormancy =was
preferable to treating them to a dogs dinner of good food, plenty of soil=and
moisture!
I live in the middle of dairy country, some two hours from Melbourne, and=we
have some great coastal scenery and beaches about 15 minutes away.  Virtu=ally no
frosts but lots of wind. I've been told the Zone is Zone 11.  Where in Am=erica
is like that?  I believe that a short intro. to myself is all that is req=uired
and this is getting a bit long.  If anyone wants to know about this part =of the
world or Tasmania and its attractions, I'm happy to oblige but be warned =I'm
about one of the worst for answering immediately.  Its not that I forget,=but
often I'm running around trying to get catalogues typed, sent or orders, =as well
as grow the plants.  We also do Spring and Autumn shows.  So sometimes it=s
difficult to get back to answering just at that time, but eventually I ge=t
there. Regards from Austalia.
Ann Garton


Arnhild Bleie wrote:

> At 07:58 PM 31.3.02 +1000, Paul Tyerman wrote:
> >Is that a help?  I'm just trying to outline what I do so that you know=that
> >you don't HAVE to use the Deno method for germinating.  I hope this is=of
> >some use to you (and anyone else who is reading)
>
> Hi Paul .. thank you!
>
> - of course it helps me since I am a newbie to this plant in general. A=t
> least it will be a helpt for next time I sow - I am emptied for seeds n=ow.
>
> The seedlings I was so excitied about already ARE sown and germinating =...
> not after DENO metode and not lik you did ...
>
> I have 9 seedlings comming up in the same pot .. and I doubt they can s=tay
> in there for so very long?  And since I probably need to transplant the=m I
> was think now, or soon, might be better than later?
>
> .. please don't apologize about mispelling and wrong language Paul .. w=hat
> should *I* say then .. English is not my native language at all and
> sometimes I do say the things very wrong .. but hope you forgive and
> understand?
>
> Arnhild - Hardanger in Norway - USDA zone 7-8