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From: "Jim McClements, Dover, DE z6" <JimMcClem at AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Arisamea bulb storage
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In a message dated 12/18/01 10:16:32 AM, dam7 at CDC.GOV writes:

<< I'd appreciate getting some advice about handling Arisaema. bulbs.  I =have
a

variety of bulbs that I'm trying to decide how best to store before

planting. I know that most do not tolerate a wet winter and so have sever=al

options.  I live in Zone 7, Atlanta, with mild, wet winters.


1.      Plant them now and cover to prevent rain from keeping the soil we=t.

The only problem now is that the soil is damp from recent rains so I woul=d

need to wait until the soil dried somewhat before planting.


2.      Store them in paper bags in the basement until spring.


3.      Store them in the refrigerator in paper bags.  I have a small

refrigerator in the basement but storage would be cramped.


4.      Plant them in slightly damp soil in pots and keep the pots in the

basement.  I've always considered this a rather tricky approach of keepin=g

the soil damp but not too wet so as to prevent rot.  Or, keep the soil dr=y.


Thanks for your help

David



>>


Michael Bosold then wrote:

<<<<David, I will give you a brief summary of my work with A. triphyllum =and
my

storage techniques.  When I get them germinated I move them from the mist=ing

bench to the normal greenhouse.  This allows them to dry out a little and

get 'tough'.  I do still water but allow the soil to dry slightly.  I als=o

use a very dilute solution of fertilizer.  They (the leaves/leaf) will br=own

up and witheraway (about 6 weeks or so), when I see this I let the soil d=ry

almost completely out, then remove the bulbs.  I take them (now soilless)

and put them into a Ziploc bag with moist New Zealand peat moss.  The key

here is moist, how do I get it moist and not wet?  Good Question.  I take

the bag, fill it about half full of moss and pile in the water.  I shut t=he

bag, let the moss take up some moisture and then invert the bag and

physically squeeze the moss until almost no water comes out.  This leaves

the moss moist but not wet, which will rot the bulbs, definitely a crucia=l

factor when dealing with older and mature bulbs, especially with bulblets

attached.  The moss fluffs up and I make a pocket , put the bulbs in , an=d

put into a cooler set between 35-45 F.  I leave them for about 3 months, =pot

them up and put 'em on the mist bench again.  I have successfully germina=ted

close to 100% and have produced bulbs in one year that are the same size =as

three year olds.  They are producing bulblets now and I think the next

planting will see them actually flower.  I like the moss beacuse it: reta=ins

moisture and air without stifling the resting bulbs, is easy to get 'mois=t

but not wet', and it's uniform and reliable.


Hope this helps...

Mike>>>>

David and Mike

Moist NZ peat moss may work for Mike with A. triphyllum, but I'd be caref=ul.

A good rule to follow with dormant arisaema tubers is that the larger the
tuber, the dryer it should be. Small tubers, such as Mike refers to, need
some moisture to keep them from dessicating, but large, flowering-size tu=bers
do not.

In an earlier discussion Ellen Hornig reported that she leaves tubers sit=ting
out on a bench in a cool area all winter and they do well. Barry Yinger
stores them in a refrigerator in dry sphagnum moss in ventilated bags. (E=llen
and Barry run very successful nurseries, and handle lots of arisaemas)

Last winter I left all of my new Chinese arrivals (except for small ones)=on
a table in paper bags in the garage (above freezing), and had no problems.

David, I'd recommend option #2 ,#3, or #4 with dry soil, unless you're
dealing with small  tubers.

Jim McClements