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Arisaema Enthusiast Group (AEG) Discussion List (and other=
Arisaema Enthusiast Group (AEG) Discussion List (and other=
Thu Jan 19 00:29:18 CET 2006
hardy Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL> Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL>
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From: Christopher Gussman <OlgaChrisEmily at MSN.COM>
Subject: Re: Grow Lights
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I agree with Bonaventure, "the plants themselves are the best meters".
If you do not wish to go with the halide, a simple "shop light" fixture w==
ill work fine. Two parallel fluorescent tubes is ok, 4 parallel tubes pr==
obably better. You can buy "special" grow lights, but regular cool white==
(cheap) fluorescent bulbs work fine for most things you wish to grow or ==
germinate indoors. Technically, they produce more on the blue end, and ==
you CAN balance this with a couple regular incandescent bulbs which will ==
give you more of the red spectrum, but you probably won't need it. Keep ==
the plants fairly close to the lights, within a few centimeters, without ==
actually touching the bulbs for best results. Of course, if you use inca==
ndescent lights (or halides) they will be hotter.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bonaventure Magrys
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:18 PM
To: ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL
Subject: Re: Grow Lights
The plants themselves are the best meters. Start them far and gradually m==
ove them upwards as they acclimate and mature, increase in size and crowd==
or are crowded and shaded by their neighbors. You may use inverted flowe==
rpots under their pots, or plastic milk crates or somesuch.
I generally find up to 1 mm from a flourescent, burning only upon contact==
, and not even in all cases. High wattage HPS and Metal Halide (MH) suits==
full sunlight plants at just a half meter away and will slow and compact==
fast vegetative growth at that distance.
To clear up what I've written before, my 250W metal halide (Venture Light==
ing) brightly lights a 5 x 5 foot (almost 2 x 2 meter) area in my main ba==
sement grow box, being suspended about 2 feet from the tops of plants in ==
the center. Shade loving plants are further out and lower to the floor. O==
f course I lined the walls with discarded mirrors for extra reflected lig==
ht and "effect".
On these walls, in a shadier area (the case is approx. 5 x 8 feet) I hav==
e mounted 2 outdoor type 75W wall mounted HPS fixtures (Home Depot). I mo==
ved some of the high MH light orchids and a putative saxatile x tortuosum==
hybrid, from the central area, to within 1 foot (~ 35 cm) under one HPS ==
unit and they have responded well even though the light gives the plants ==
a yellow cast when on.
The other HPS is on the wall of the high light area just above the mirror==
behind my several miniature Cymbidiums so that they get high MH light on==
one side and above, and HPS light from behind and above.
This is the first time I have gotten them to initiate spikes (bloom stems==
) in winter indoors.
Bonaventure Magrys
----- Original Message -----
From: "George R. Stilwell, Jr." <GRSJr at WORLDNET.ATT.NET>
Date: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 2:37 pm
Subject: Re: Grow Lights
> At 1/17/2006 11:03 AM, you wrote:
> > you should probably replace them after about 6-8 months
> >-Ken Mosher
>
> A cheap light meter will let you use them until they burn out.
> Just change
> the distance to the plants as they age.
>
> Ray
>
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<HTML><BODY STYLE="font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>I agree with=B=
onaventure, "the plants themselves are the best meters".</DIV> <DIV>If yo==
u do not wish to go with the halide, a simple "shop light" fixture will w==
ork fine. Two parallel fluorescent tubes is ok, 4 parallel tubes pr==
obably better. You can buy "special" grow lights, but regular cool ==
white (cheap) fluorescent bulbs work fine for most things you wish to gro==
w or germinate indoors. Technically, they produce more on the==
blue end, and you CAN balance this with a couple regular incandescent bu==
lbs which will give you more of the red spectrum, but you probably won't ==
need it. Keep the plants fairly close to the lights, within a few c==
entimeters, without actually touching the bulbs for best results. O==
f course, if you use incandescent lights (or halides) they will be hotter==
</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px=;=
PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MAR==
GIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message=-=
----</DIV> <DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: =bl=
ack"><B>From:</B> Bonaventure Magrys</DIV> <DIV style="FONT: 10pt Ari=al=
"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:18 PM</DIV> <DIV style="=FO=
NT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL</DIV> <DIV style=3=D"=
FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Grow Lights</DIV> <DIV> </DIV>==
The plants themselves are the best meters. Start them far and gradually m==
ove them upwards as they acclimate and mature, increase in size and crowd==
or are crowded and shaded by their neighbors. You may use inverted flowe==
rpots under their pots, or plastic milk crates or somesuch. <BR><BR>I gen==
erally find up to 1 mm from a flourescent, burning only upon contact, and==
not even in all cases. High wattage HPS and Metal Halide (MH) suits full==
sunlight plants at just a half meter away and will slow and compact fast==
vegetative growth at that distance. <BR><BR>To clear up what I've writte==
n before, my 250W metal halide (Venture Lighting) brightly lights a 5 x 5==
foot (almost 2 x 2 meter) area in my main basement grow box, being suspe==
nded about 2 feet from the tops of plants in the center. Shade loving pla==
nts are further out and lower to the floor. Of course I lined the walls w==
ith discarded mirrors for extra reflected light and "effect". <BR><BR>On ==
these walls, in a shadier area (the case is approx. 5 x 8 feet) I h==
ave mounted 2 outdoor type 75W wall mounted HPS fixtures (Home Depot). I ==
moved some of the high MH light orchids and a putative saxatile x tortuos==
um hybrid, from the central area, to within 1 foot (~ 35 cm) under one HP==
S unit and they have responded well even though the light gives the plant==
s a yellow cast when on.<BR>The other HPS is on the wall of the high ligh==
t area just above the mirror behind my several miniature Cymbidiums so th==
at they get high MH light on one side and above, and HPS light from behin==
d and above.<BR>This is the first time I have gotten them to initiate spi==
kes (bloom stems) in winter indoors.<BR><BR>Bonaventure Magrys<BR><BR>---==
-- Original Message -----<BR>From: "George R. Stilwell, Jr." <GRSJr at WO==
RLDNET.ATT.NET><BR>Date: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 2:37 pm<BR>Subject:==
Re: Grow Lights<BR><BR>> At 1/17/2006 11:03 AM, you wrote:<BR>&==
gt; > you should probably replace them after about 6-8 months<BR==
>> >-Ken Mosher<BR>> <BR>> A cheap light meter will let you u==
se them until they burn out. <BR>> Just change <BR>> the distance t==
o the plants as they age.<BR>> <BR>> Ray <BR>> <BR></BLOCKQUOTE>==
</BODY></HTML>
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