No subject

Thu Nov 25 17:06:58 CET 2004

hardy  Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL> Aroids)" <ARISAEMA-L at NIC.SURFNET.NL>
Sender: "Arisaema Enthusiast Group (AEG) Discussion List (and other=
From: "Jim McClements, Dover, DE z6" <JimMcClem at AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: corm storage
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=3D"part1_c.39003919.2ed75d22_boundary"

--part1_c.39003919.2ed75d22_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 11/25/04 3:29:20 AM, eob at NU-WORLD.COM writes:

> Does anyone have any good tricks for keeping corms over winter. Here is=the
> problem. There are a lot of different species, but they each have a var=iety
> of sizes from around 4mm. to 8-10cm. It is a real drag trying to find t=he
> small stored bulbs in a mess of peat, but when I tried putting them bet=ween
> two layers of Remay (spun fiber garden cloth) with peat above and below=for
> moisture control, they species sometimes got mixed by some of our emplo=yees
> and it was tedious. I used to leave them in the pots over winter but th=ey
> really do stay too wet here, even under cover and I was getting rot on =the
> larger corms.
>
> So, any brilliant ideas out there? By the way, I don't keep them in a f=ridge
> or anything, just a cool greenhouse that doesn't freeze. Ha anyone trie=d a
> fine grade of perlite? Seems like they would be pretty visible in that.
>
>

Ernie

Contrary to what Ray reported, I still do use Turface as a medium for sto=ring
Arisaema tubers in the fridge, in a closed "baggie".

The most important concept, IMHO, is:   the smaller the tuber, the more
moisture is needed. Dry, or nearly dry, Turface works well for larger tub=ers, but
it's unusual to see small, first or second year, tubers harmed by excessi=ve
moisture. Without some moisture they shrivel up.

An advantage of Turface is that the amount of moisture in it is easily ju=dged
by the color. I check the bags every month or so, reshuffle the tubers an=d
turface, and add a few drops of water if the Turface is pale and dry.

Separating the very small tubers from the Turface is easy. Dump the bag i=nto
a shallow plastic bowl and add enough water to allow the Turface to sink.=The
tubers are readily found by being on top, particularly by moving the bowl
around as if "panning for gold".

For larger tubers, I think that Barry Yinger stores his in perforated pla=stic
bags, mixed with dry spagnum moss, and I recall Ellen Hornig talking abou=t
leaving hers on a greenhouse bench all winter. The important issue with l=arge
tubers seems to be prevention of rot, and one gets the feeling that there=may
not be any such thing as "too dry", as long as freezing is avoided.

Jim

Jim McClements
50 S. Prestwick Ct, Dover, Delaware, 19904, USA, Zone 7a

--part1_c.39003919.2ed75d22_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><HTML><FONT COLOR="#000000" FACE=="Gen=
eva" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" SIZE="2"><BR>
In a message dated 11/25/04 3:29:20 AM, eob at NU-WORLD.COM writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE CITE STYLE="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: =5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px" TYPE="CITE"></FONT><FONT COLOR=="#0=
00000" FACE="Geneva" FAMILY="SANSSERIF" SIZE="2">Does anyone =have any =
good tricks for keeping corms over winter. Here is the<BR>
problem. There are a lot of different species, but they each have a varie=ty<=
BR>
of sizes from around 4mm. to 8-10cm. It is a real drag trying to find the=<BR=
>
small stored bulbs in a mess of peat, but when I tried putting them betwe=en<=
BR>
two layers of Remay (spun fiber garden cloth) with peat above and below f=or<=
BR>
moisture control, they species sometimes got mixed by some of our employe=es<=
BR>
and it was tedious. I used to leave them in the pots over winter but they=<BR=
>
really do stay too wet here, even under cover and I was getting rot on th=e<B=
R>
larger corms.<BR>
<BR>
So, any brilliant ideas out there? By the way, I don't keep them in a fri=dge=
<BR>
or anything, just a cool greenhouse that doesn't freeze. Ha anyone tried =a<B=
R>
fine grade of perlite? Seems like they would be pretty visible in that.<B=R>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" FACE="Geneva" FAMILY=="SANSSE=
RIF" SIZE="2"><BR>
<BR>
Ernie<BR>
<BR>
Contrary to what Ray reported, I still do use Turface as a medium for sto=rin=
g Arisaema tubers in the fridge, in a closed "baggie".<BR>
<BR>
The most important concept, IMHO, is:&nbsp;  the smaller the tuber, the m=ore=
moisture is needed. Dry, or nearly dry, Turface works well for larger tu=ber=
s, but it's unusual to see small, first or second year, tubers harmed by =exc=
essive moisture. Without some moisture they shrivel up.<BR>
<BR>
An advantage of Turface is that the amount of moisture in it is easily ju=dge=
d by the color. I check the bags every month or so, reshuffle the tubers =and=
turface, and add a few drops of water if the Turface is pale and dry.<BR=>
<BR>
Separating the very small tubers from the Turface is easy. Dump the bag i=nto=
a shallow plastic bowl and add enough water to allow the Turface to sink=. T=
he tubers are readily found by being on top, particularly by moving the b=owl=
around as if "panning for gold".<BR>
<BR>
For larger tubers, I think that Barry Yinger stores his in perforated pla=sti=
c bags, mixed with dry spagnum moss, and I recall Ellen Hornig talking ab=out=
leaving hers on a greenhouse bench all winter. The important issue with =lar=
ge tubers seems to be prevention of rot, and one gets the feeling that th=ere=
may not be any such thing as "too dry", as long as freezing is avoided.<=BR>
<BR>
Jim<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Jim McClements<BR>
50 S. Prestwick Ct, Dover, Delaware, 19904, USA, Zone 7a<BR>
</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" FACE="Geneva" FAMILY="SANSSERIF"=SIZE="=
2"></FONT></HTML>
--part1_c.39003919.2ed75d22_boundary--

-From - Thu Sep 09 17:55:57 2010
X-Account-Key: account2
X-UIDL: AAAAjgQAAAwhdhgD7HtOIOkkKLATqNyU
X-Mozilla-Status: 0000
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
X-Mozilla-Keys:
Received: from uu01msg-exb06.soliscom.uu.nl ([131.211.4.77]) by uu01msg-exb03.soliscom.uu.nl with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.1830);
Thu, 9 Sep 2010 17:55:39 +0200
Received: from uu01msg-smtp02.soliscom.uu.nl ([131.211.4.105]) by uu01msg-exb06.soliscom.uu.nl with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.3959);
Thu, 9 Sep 2010 17:55:39 +0200
Received: from filter5-ams.mf.surf.net ([192.87.102.73]) by uu01msg-smtp02.soliscom.uu.nl with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.1830);
Thu, 9 Sep 2010 17:55:38 +0200
Received: from nic.surfnet.nl (listserv.surfnet.nl [145.100.185.133])
by filter5-ams.mf.surf.net (8.14.3/8.14.3/Debian-5+lenny1) with ESMTP id o89FqQUT008229
for <e.j.gouda at UU.NL>; Thu, 9 Sep 2010 17:55:37 +0200
Received: from listserv (145.100.185.133) by nic.surfnet.nl (LSMTP for Windows NT v1.1b) with SMTP id <0.1A2ED1B7 at nic.surfnet.nl>; Thu, 9 Sep 2010 17:52:28 +0200
Date:         Thu, 9 Sep 2010 17:52:27 +0200
From:         "SURFnet (The Netherlands) LISTSERV Server (15.0)" <LISTSERV at NIC.SURFNET.NL>
Subject: File: "ARISAEMA-L LOG0502"
To:           Eric Gouda <e.j.gouda at UU.NL>
Message-ID:   <LISTSERV%201009091752277360.84B8 at NIC.SURFNET.NL>
X-Bayes-Prob: 0.0001 (Score 0, tokens from: @@RPTN)
X-Spam-Score: 0.30 () [Tag at 6.00] ADVANCE_FEE_2,1265(0),CC(NL:-0.5),RBL(combined-rprl.surfnet.nl:mask:0.0.0.8:-1.0),RBL(sn-addr.surfnet.nl:-0.5)
X-CanIt-Geo: ip=145.100.185.133; country=NL; region=09; city=Utrecht; latitude=52.0833; longitude=5.1333; http://maps.google.com/maps?q=52.0833,5.1333&z=6
X-CanItPRO-Stream: uu:e.j.gouda at uu.nl (inherits from uu:solismail,uu:default,base:default)
X-Canit-Stats-ID: 0BD4DTAaM - cf8d0b2af4a9 - 20100909
X-Scanned-By: CanIt (www . roaringpenguin . com) on 192.87.102.73
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=unknown-8bit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by filter5-ams.mf.surf.net id o89FqQUT008229
Return-Path: <>
X-OriginalArrivalTime: 09 Sep 2010 15:55:38.0847 (UTC) FILETIME=[72BAF6F0:01CB5037]