tuber dormancy requirements
SMWills33 at AOL.COM
Mon Aug 11 23:17:11 CEST 1997
Hi to you all
> seedling tubers have rarely failed to come back into growth after up to six
> months' dry storage, in-pot, at room temperatures.
> The temperature of their store
> room has varied according to my use. Some years, they were kept in the 70's
> and 80's F.during the day.
I leave seedlings in their pots for 2 - 3 years and put the pots in a frame
with just enough bottom heat to stop them freezing solid. Once they have
outgrown the seed pots those that are not going out-doors are knocked out of
their pots in October (before our first frosts) and then stored dry, in
trays, in a wine cellar until February, when they are re-potted. The
relative humidity must be about 60/80 per cent over winter, and the
temperature range over the year is 40 - 65 F. This seems to have worked
well over the past 12 years for the Himalayan species, at least. The reason
for knocking them out is two-fold: a) you can inspect for rot and cut out
problem bits, and b) they take up far less room.
>Which species have you done this with? Leaving the tubers in their pot at
>temperature during dormancy is an alluring idea. It would be easier than
>storage with plants whose hardiness is unsure.
consanguineum, costatum, exappendiculatum, flavum, intermedium jacquemontii,
nepenthoides, ochraceum, propinquum, ringens, robustum, sikokianum,
speciosum, thunbergii, tortuosum and triphyllum
>Thos which have failed
> to re-emerge, I believe, succumbed to my impatience in attempting to force
> growth by watering too early in the season.
Hear, hear - or by carrying on watering too vigorously as they go down in
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